Exploring Georgia's Unspoiled Cumberland Island

 There is an island off the coast of Georgia that few have heard of. (If you have heard of it, it's most likely because it was the spot of John F. Kennedy Jr.'s wedding to Carolyn Bessette or because it was the home of the famously rich, steel magnate Carnegie family) Cumberland Island is, in fact, Georgia's largest barrier island. It's a land of unspoiled beauty and rich history - and part of it is home to Cumberland Island National Seashore. There are wild horses, haunting ruins, a maritime forest and gorgeous beaches. Ride the ferry with me and visit this island that time forgot.

The ferry takes off for its 45 minute ride from the little town of St. Marys, Georgia. It's basically a one street town, though it does host a few Bed and Breakfasts along with a quaint old hotel. But there's not much here - the ferry office, a national park service desk and store, a small park, the St. Marys Submarine Museum (St. Marys is close to the Kings Bay Naval Station) and a few restaurants. It goes out twice a day - and conversely, also returns twice per day. (Daily at 9 & 11:45 with returns at 2:45 & 4:45)

If you'd like to do more than a day trip, there are two options for staying on the island - camping at the National Park campgrounds - there are five -or a stay at the exclusive Greyfield Inn. All inclusive prices start at a steep $695 per night at the inn, though it does include a private ferry ride to the island.

This horse was just hanging out in the shelter. Looks like he was reading the map!

We were what most people are who visit the island - day trippers. The ferry drops off at two different docks on the south end of the island and you can choose whether you'd like to walk, rent a bike or take a minivan tour - which is not currently running due to Covid. We originally thought we would rent bikes but upon perusing the map we saw that bikes weren't allowed on all the trails so we changed to walking and did the ever popular 4.3 mile Southern loop which showcases a good bit of the island.

We chose to get off the ferry at the first dock, at Dungeness, which was close to the ruins of the Dungeness mansion owned by the Carnegie's. It was a 59 room mansion built by Thomas and Lucy Carnegie - though he died before it was completed - that burned down in 1954. 

After our visit to the ruins, we continued our walk. Right next to the ruins is the oldest building on the island, the Tabby House, built in 1790. Then we took in the cemetery(notice the headstones outside the family cemetery - they are for long term servants who were allowed to be buried in the family cemetery but outside the wall) a boardwalk through the marsh and entered the piece de resistance - the beach. If you're walking the loop, the beach takes up a mile and a half of it. Our weather was amazing - not swimming weather, mind you. It was still spring, after all - but sunny, fairly warm and of course, quite windy on the beach. And we spotted the wild horses!

Cumberland Island has the only herd of feral horses on the Atlantic Coast that is not managed - no food, water or veterinary care is offered - and the National Park Service estimates that the herd includes 125 to 150 animals. Horses are found on the lawn of the Dungeness Ruins, on the beach and on the dunes. (Indication that they have been there are all over the island - large piles of horse dung are on the trails) Rangers warn not to get too close or worse yet, try to ride them - they can bite and kick. (We were there in spring and the rangers said they can be quite frisky and keep 2 school bus lengths between you and them)

Coming off the beach the loop takes you through the beautiful maritime forest. It's quite the stunning sight of a forest of live oaks. Surrounded by dunes on one side and a salt marsh on the other, it seems like something out of a Star Wars movie. And strangely enough, there was a horse just walking down the path towards us when we were walking in the forest!

Looks like he was on his way to greet us!

We had finished the loop and it was time to ferry back to the mainland. If you're looking for a place of unspoiled beauty, minimal crowds and no congestion, then I think that Cumberland Island is for you. 

What to know before you go:

- There are no trash cans on the island so you must pack out all your trash.

- The only lodging is the Greyfield Inn or National Park Service campsites. 

- No restaurants or commercial establishments with the exception of the campground office so you must bring everything you would like to use with you.

- No food service is available at the ferry office but the ferry does sell a few snacks.

- The Land and Legacies Tour is currently not available due to Covid 19. 

- The ferry service is passenger only - no cars allowed and transport is by foot, rental bike or the Land and Legacies Tour.

- There are public restrooms available on the island

- Free public parking is available if you are taking the ferry.

How about you? Have you been to Cumberland Island?

Linking up with: My Corner of the World at Photographing New Zealand!