The Wilds of Western North Carolina - Bryson City, Lake Fontana and Beyond

Last year Mr. UR surprised me with a trip to the Florida Keys for my birthday - and I was thrilled. I'd been talking about a return trip to the Keys for quite some time - I think it's been about 10 years since we've been - and I guess he was listening. We were to fly from Asheville to Miami on the Thursday before Labor Day Weekend. Unfortunately, Hurricane Dorian had other plans. The Keys were predicted to be hard hit (which didn't happen) so we called our accommodations and received a refund. Now, what should we do? Fall back and punt!

Since we were already in Asheville we decided to head west to the far reaches of North Carolina to areas that we hadn't been before. I was able to pay my first visit to the North Carolina Arboretum, we drove to the top of the highest point east of the Mississippi, Mt Mitchell, had a brew at the impressive Sierra Nevada Brewing Company, rented a boat on the absolutely gorgeous Lake Fontana, ate dinner overlooking the Nantahala River, enjoyed birthday cake in cute, little Bryson City and managed to get a last minute room at a place I had been wanting to stay at forever, Lakeview at Fontana. For planning the weekend at the very last minute, it turned out to be one of my most favorite weekends away. The stars aligned perfectly and everything worked out. Come along and see for yourself!

Things to Do:

North Carolina Arboretum

The North Carolina Arboretum is located just south of Asheville. It's free to enter - with a parking fee of $16 - and it's 65 acres of gardens  include a visitor center, cafe, model train, walking trails and one of the most unique Bonsai gardens in the US with up to 50 Bonsai trees displayed. It's also very well known for it's Winter Lights exhibition which sells out every year. (It's highly suggested that you order your tickets well in advance online)

I spent a delightful afternoon here exploring all the gardens and enjoying lunch at the cafe. You can read about it here.

Mount Mitchell

At 6,684 feet Mt Mitchell is the highest peak east of the Mississippi. You can reach the summit via a scenic drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway. At the summit there is a concession stand (open from May to October) and restrooms along with a 1/4 mile accessible path to the observation deck. Camping is available normally - please check the website before you go - and there are several trails ranked from easy to strenous. It's free to visit and if you're feeling extra hungry there is a seasonal restaurant with views about a half mile from the summit.

This was my third visit to Mt. Mitchell and the third time was the charm. Eight out of ten days the mountain is covered in fog and clouds which explains why I had never seen any of the views from here before. But this time it was a perfect blue sky day and the views were awesome. We walked the short, but steep, path to the summit to catch all the views. 

Sierra Nevada Brewery

That evening we decided to visit the much -talked-about Sierra Nevada Brewing (it's actually about 20 minutes south of Asheville in Fletcher, NC) Sierra Nevada was started in 1980 in California as a hand built brewhouse. It's most recent endeavor is the Mills River Brewery & Taproom. You can sample beers on tap, sample small plates, sit fireside on the back porch or even hike the nature trail. There is live music, inside or out, and of course, brewery tours. They've made it quite the destination and you could easily spend an afternoon here enjoying all that this sustainable brewery has to offer.

Lake Fontana

At 10,000 acres, Fontana Lake is the largest lake in Western North Carolina. It is sandwiched between Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Nantahala National Forest. Created in the 1940's by the Tennessee Valley Authority, it is a gorgeous emerald green lake with about 90 percent of it's shoreline protected by the National Forest and Park. At 480 feet tall (equivalent to a 50 story skyscraper) it's dam is the highest east of the Rockies. It's very popular for fishing, boating and swimming but well known for it's wilderness camping and hiking.

I absolutely loved Fontana Lake! We rented a boat for the day and enjoyed its' green waters - we walked the dam, went swimming, enjoyed the mountain views and saw only a few other boats (It was a weekday, though) 

Where We Ate:

Nantahala Outdoor Center - River's End Restaurant

The Nantahala Outdoor Center is a 500 acre outdoor center that offers whitewater rafting, four ziplines, mountain biking on 9 acres of trails and stand up paddle boarding on Lake Fontana. You can also stay in a cabin here, shop at one of its' four retail stores or eat at one of its' two riverfront restaurants. Since this was a last minute trip, we weren't able to book a rafting trip so we did the next best thing - eat at River's End Restaurant. Every seat has a view of the river, there's live bluegrass music and outdoor adirondack chairs to enjoy it. It's a fun place to spend an evening, and good food, too. I'd love to go back for another visit!

Bryson City - The Everett 

Bryson City is known as The Gateway to the Smokies. It's home to the Great Smoky Mountain Railway,  is an outdoor adventurer's playground, and it's historic courthouse is home to the National Park's Visitor Center and the Swain County Heritage Museum. You can stroll the downtown visiting it's historic square and shops and galleries. It's also home to the award winning Nantahala Brewing Company where you can take a tour or have a brew.

Our hotel recommended The Bistro at the Everett Hotel for a delicious birthday dinner. They source their ingredients locally and serve a seasonal menu - our dinner was fantastic and there was even a Happy Birthday nutella crepe for dessert. (I suggest advance reservations as they are the best game in town) And if you're interested in staying in town, The Everett is a luxury boutique hotel housed in an old bank building with rooftop terrace, full complimentary breakfast and free parking along with meals at the above mentioned Bistro.

Where We Stayed:

Lakeview at Fontana

Several years ago I bookmarked the Lakeview at Fontana after it was featured in Southern Living Magazine who billed it as "one of the great lodging secrets in North Carolina." It's received numerous accolades including USA Today who named it one of  its' 10 Best Southern Mountain Inn and Resorts. It's a 50's era motel that has been completely redone in a mediterranean theme with a spa added. I had my fingers crossed when I called to book a room - and was very fortunate that the hurricane had caused some to cancel rooms and one was available.

The Lakeview at Fontana is an adult only resort and spa that includes a spring fed swimming pool, views of Lake Fontana, an on property hiking trail, nightly wine and cheese hour, daily breakfast and is pet friendly. (Note: wine and cheese and breakfast have been suspended due to Covid-19) There are no TV's in the room - though there is one in the lounge - as guests are meant to immerse themselves in and enjoy the nature around them.

Exclusive to Lakeview at Fontana are the Treetop Soaking Cabanas (prices range from $99 - $199) and I knew this was what I wanted for my birthday gift. The cabanas are set in a forested hillside and are open air yet private. There is a stand alone tub in each along with bath salts and a view of the lake. It is incredibly relaxing - music, robes and towels are included - and made for a perfect morning in the mountains. I would highly recommend a stay here - and a soak in the cabanas if they're available.

Nantahala Village

Nantahala Village is a destination resort in the Bryson City area. It includes a lodge with guest rooms, cabin rentals, game room, swimming pool, general store, restaurant, bar and horseback riding. Our accommodations was one of their fireplace suites that was not in the main lodge. It was great for just the two of us - plenty of room with a nice back deck. The resort itself was a bit empty and just seemed I don't know, maybe just a little dated. The reviews for it are great, though, and it would be a nice place to take a family with young kids to use all the amenities.

How about you? Have you enjoyed the far western wilds of North Carolina?

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