Weekend Getaway: Colorado's Western Slope

May 04, 2023

Weekend Getaway: Colorado's Western Slope

One of my favorite areas of Colorado is the Western Slope. This high desert area, including Grand Junction, Palisade, Fruita and the Grand Mesa - is known as the hub of Colorado wine country. We've visited this area several times and continue to choose it as a weekend getaway destination. Last July we spent a weekend here with friends enjoying stops at wineries and a few breweries, visiting Colorado National Monument, driving to the top of Grand Mesa and taking in the beautiful scenery of Western Colorado. Come along for a weekend getaway to the Grand Valley!

Photo credit: Susan E.

Colorado National Monument

Colorado National Monument preserves one of the grand landscapes of the American West. It's a little known national monument located just outside the city of Grand Junction with sheer walled canyons and red rock landscapes.

The highlight of the monument is the historic Rim Rock Drive - said to be one of the most spectacular drives in the US. The average driving time is about 45 minutes - but you can add more to that with stops at the Visitor Center, taking a hike or stopping at one of the several overlooks. And if you're really up for a challenge, bicycles are allowed on Rim Rock Drive and share the road with motor vehicles. In fact, Colorado National Monument is part of a stage on the international bike race, The Coors Classic with the stage being known as The Tour of the Moon.

It became a monument due to one man's efforts. John Otto first explored the area - before that the canyons were thought to be inaccessible to man - in the early 20th century. He began building trails and word made it to Washington DC about the area. In May 1911, it became a national monument and Otto became the first park ranger with a salary of $1 per month - the equivalent in 2023 of $33. He lived in the canyons in a tent building trails by hand. He was known as an eccentric who was totally dedicated to the Monument with hopes of it becoming a national park. He married an artist who was also eccentric - the ceremony took place at the base of Independence Monument - but unfortunately the marriage only lasted a few weeks with his wife saying she could not live the lifestyle that he had and leaving Colorado never to return.

Independence Monument. John Otto and his bride were married at the base

On this visit, we started at the Visitor Center where we then picked up a trailhead for a short hike along the rim. We took in the views and spotted a very colorful eastern spotted lizard while on the trail. Then it was time to drive the Rim Rock Drive. We stopped at almost every overlook and a traffic jam of desert bighorn sheep.

Grand Mesa

Grand Mesa is the largest flat top mountain in the world. It has an area of about 500 square miles and stretches for about 40 miles. It is an outdoor lovers paradise with some 300 alpine lakes so fishing, hiking, hunting and camping abound - and skiing or mountain biking at Powderhorn Resort in their respective seasons. Sitting 11,000 feet above sea level, Grand Mesa National Forest offers breathtaking views. And the wildlife sightings could be awesome - there are moose, mule deer, elk, black bear and marmot living here. Good news for those who don't like extreme heat - the temps at the top of the Mesa are usually 20 degrees cooler than the valley and the highest temperature ever recorded there is 80 degrees.

We started our drive to the top of the Mesa with a visit to Powderhorn and a ride on its ski lift. At the top we took a short walk viewing the wildflowers and taking in the views. As we ascended we saw several of the alpine lakes and stopped at the Grand Mesa National Forest Visitor Center for a break.

They pointed us in the direction of the Lands End Observatory - a stone observatory (later a visitor center) built in 1936 sitting on the rim of the Mesa at 10,500 feet. Not only does it have incredible views but the history of the building itself is quite interesting. Built by 200 veterans who were part of the Civilian Conservation Corps, they were paid a dollar per day to build the observatory and the 10 mile half paved/half gravel road while living in tents 10 miles below the rim. All completed without any injuries - pretty amazing! And if you like wildflowers, this is the road for you. You can't help but stop to take photos - lots of them!

This was my first time to the Grand Mesa and I thought it was absolutely stunning. The scenic byway, the views and I really enjoyed the ski lift at Powderhorn. I just may have to go back someday.

Western Slope Wineries

The Western Slope - particularly the town of Palisade - is known as the Wine Country of Colorado. There are some 30 wineries in this area with most having tasting rooms. We hit a few while we were there - Colorado Cellars, Plum Creek Winery, Carboy Winery (which has three other Colorado locations), Two Rivers Winery & Chateau and Carlson Vineyards - and I love how different they all were. Plus, anyone who knows me, knows I love a good winery. Grapes don't grow in ugly places! If you're in the Western Slope area and love, or even like, a wine tasting with beautiful scenery, get yourself to Palisade - you won't be sorry.

Winery cat at Carlson Vineyards

Plum Creek Winery

Colorado Cellars

View of the Book Cliffs from Carlson

Two Rivers Winery and Chateau

Where We Ate

Since our Air BnB had a full kitchen, we ate a few meals - mainly breakfast - there. We managed to grab a sandwich in downtown Grand Junction at its original brewpub - The Rockslide Brew Pub - after our hike and visit to the Monument. Dinner one night was at the very busy Goat and Clover Tavern - Grand Junction's Irish Pub - after drinks at the Devil's Kitchen, one of the most popular restaurants in the city. So popular we couldn't get reservations.

Statues in downtown Grand Junction

One morning we went to the Palisade Farmers Market for a walk around - as one does - and we ate brunch at the adorable 13 Brix Cider Bistro. Inside was full so we enjoyed brunch on the patio- just be aware that they are a brunch/lunch hours place closing at 2pm on Sundays.

And last but not least, we had to stop at Palisade Pies, a family owned pie shop that uses fruit from their own orchard in their pies. We each got a small pie - mine was peach because well, when you're in Palisade you gotta have the famous Palisade Peaches, don't you?

Where We Stayed

We rented an Air BnB cottage in the city of Grand Junction which had fantastic views of Colorado National Monument right from the yard. Having two bedrooms, one bathroom and a living room/kitchen combo, this newly built cottage was perfect for four people. There was two outside space areas - where we enjoyed the evenings and our breakfast in the morning - which afforded us sunset views of the monument. Plus it was quiet and private - it was built in the backyard of the owners ranch home. I'd definitely stay here again.