A Week on the Big Island of Hawaii

 I fell in love with the Hawaiian Islands on our 25th Anniversary trip there. It was my first visit and we went to Maui, Kauai and the North Shore of Oahu. I was smitten. And I've been scheming to get back there ever since. Our 40th wedding anniversary was this past December and I thought it would be a fantastic way to celebrate with a trip to the Hawaii. So we booked a trip for one week in January for our first visit to the Big Island! And here is how it went:

Lava Tree State Monument

Lava Tree State Monument, located in Pahoa, is an excellent example of a forest of lava trees along a 0.7 mile loop trail. It preserves lava molds of the tree trunks that were formed when a lava flow swept through a forested area in 1790.  The loop takes about 45 minutes, entrance is free and  there is free parking. It made for a nice morning visit in the sunshine for us - it was about 10 minutes away from our lodging. Oh, and we were the only ones there.

Volcanoes National Park

I'm a big fan of national parks and the opportunity to visit Volcanoes National Park presented itself -since we'd be on the eastern side of the island - so we definitely had to take it. The added bonus of seeing Kilauea erupt? Unbelievable!

Entry was free and we decided to eat brunch in the lodge. I waited in the line to get a table while Mr. UR parked the car and I couldn't believe my eyes when I could see Kilauea from the restaurant windows - and lava! Thinking that was the highlight we drove to the visitor center and found out that they were expecting an eruption. Two stops with views but mainly smoke and then we found out where to park and walk - about 2 miles round trip- to see the eruption. Lo and behold, we actually got to see Kilauea spout all her anger, or power. Amazing! 

Our only regret was that we didn't have a chance to go back and see her even bigger eruption. But I won't be greedy and enjoy what I did see. Seeing a volcano erupt? Check!

Pu' uhonoa O Honaunau National Historic Park

This 180 acre national historic park was once the home of royal grounds and a refuge for ancient Hawaiian lawbreakers. Believed to be protected by the God of life, Lono, and a spiritual sanctuary, you can visit it today as part of the National Park system. Located on the south Kona coast - we visited when driving from Hilo to Kona - it is one of the most significant traditional Hawaiian sites in the islands. 

There is a central loop that takes about 30 to 45 minutes to walk along with a short film about the pu'uhonoa, demonstrations by native Hawaiians and you may even spot sea turtles resting on the shore (we did not) The place of refuge, or pu' uhonua, is contained with a 965 foot dry stacked wall and served defeated warriors, noncombatants or those who violated sacred laws. If you had broken one of these laws, punishable by death, and made it to the refuge then you could be protected from any punishment and no physical harm could come to you! Very interesting.

A tip: there is very little shade so come in the morning or late afternoon. Hours are 8:30am to 4:30pm and fee is $20 to enter or use your national park pass.

Magic Sands Beach

Magic Sands Beach, also known as La 'aloa Beach Park, is 3 miles south of Kailua-Kona and happened to be directly across the street from the condo we were staying at. It's a small beach with a parking lot - and street parking - that is known for a special phenomenon. It's shoreline seemingly vanishes overnight (hence, why it's also called Disappearing Sands also) During a period of high swells or strong swells, ocean currents sweep the sand out to sea which exposes the black lava rock. So it's a popular spot to surf and body board but is definitely for the more advanced crowd. The lifeguard was calling people out continuously while we were there - warning that they could get hurt - but the local teenage boys didn't seem to listen.

It's also a good place to watch the sunset. And if you'd like, you can grab a drink or meal right next door at Magic Beach Grill. I had my first taste of ulu - breadfruit - here at the suggestion of our server. Not bad!

Spencer Beach Park

Spencer Beach Park is located on the northern part of the island and was recommended to us by a condo owner where we stayed. It was about an hours drive to get there and was a calm, non crowded beach to hang out at. Mr. UR brought his snorkel gear and we sat in our chairs to relax. There were bathrooms and a small parking lot so it made for an easy mid morning spot to hang out. 

Snorkeling Kealakekua Bay

Kealakekua Bay is a marine sanctury known for it's pristine waters and history. It's the home of the Captain Cook Monument and can only be reached by boat or a strenous hike. We signed up to do a half day snorkeling tour here and I'm so glad we did.

We sailed with Sea Paradise - pick up the boat near Outrigger Resort - which took us along the coast while we enjoyed a breakfast of fresh fruit and baked goods  - we even spotted some whale spouts and dolphins - to Kealakekua Bay. Some of the staff gave us an overview of the marine life and a history of Captain Cook's life while we were sailing. (He was killed by natives at the spot of the monument) We were given snorkel gear and snorkeled along the bay wall. Next up was the area near Captain Cook's Monument - that was the better snorkeling - where we saw black cleaner wrasse fish and lots of sea urchins of all sizes.  Lunch and drinks were served and then we toodled back along the coast. It was a very fun snorkeling tour - I really enjoyed it - and I would definitely do it again.

Kahalu 'u Beach Park

Kahalu 'u Beach Park is located south of Kona on Alii Drive. This unique park combines history with water activities and is very family friendly. Originally a sacred places with temples, the natives built a barrier rock wall to break the surf making it one of the best places to snorkel. The water is generally shallow and the small currents that get in allow the water to refresh itself regularly. The shallowness of the water also allows you to see clearly including many sightings of sea turtles. Mr. UR snorkeled here and I believe he saw a good amount of sea life (It's also a good place to learn to surf.) Having said all the benefits, just know that it's not a postcard perfect beach like those in the north of the island. 

There is a pavillion with picnic tables, restrooms including showers, a lifeguard station and a small parking lot (Paid) We chose to park on the street and just walk a short ways.

Kohala Coast

The Kohala Coast, on the northwest side of the Big Island, has beaches, ranching - home of the infamous Parker Ranch -, and breathtaking valleys including Waipi 'o.  It also has golf courses and posh oceanfront resorts. 

We decided to do a day trip here on our last day on the island and see all its wonders. Starting out in the rain, we passed by Parker Ranch - one of the oldest and largest cattle ranches in the US. Home of the Paniolo, Parker Ranch was started in the 1800's by John Palmer Parker who received permission from King Kamemeha to kull the wild cattle and sell the meat. You can go on a self guided tour, have your wedding or event here and even go on hunting tours. 

After passing through the ranch headquarters in Waimea - and the town - we drove to the Waipi 'o Valley Lookout. This lookout offers stunning views of the "Valley of the Kings" - the boyhood home of King Kamehameha I. Once home to thousands of Hawaiians, it's now home to only 100 residents. 

The lookout provides a parking lot, paved walkway to the lookout, restrooms and panoramic views of the 2,000 foot cliffs. 

Now it was time for a snack and a little shopping in the tiny town of Honokaa. Tex's Drive In for their famous malasadas, or portuguese yeast donuts. They're considered the best on the island so we really had to try them. Yummy! And, of course, a bit of shopping at the book store, too. 

Back into Waimea for a beverage at Big Island Brew Haus, Hawaii's highest brewpub before we drove to the Pololu Valley lookout. Located at the very tip of the Big Island, this valley features emerald cliffs, a black sand beach and a steep hike down to it. We apparently just missed seeing a mama and baby whale - darn! - but enjoyed the views. 

Now we passed by the statue of King Kamehameha I, erected near where Hawaii's greatest king was born, on our way to the resort side of the island and some dinner at the Lava Lava Beach Club. We watched the sunset before we had to be at the airport.

I absolutely loved the Big Island and this trip. It was well worth the wait. And I can't wait to go back again - hopefully it will be sooner this time!

How about you? Have you been to the Big Island?